Visiting Alaska - WOW it’s a dream, but NAH those cruises are just so expensive. This is how most of us who love to explore new frontiers would feel.
But there's a smart way and a better way to travel to Alaska and feel the great treasures of this pristine land that’s sitting next to the North pole. Fly to Anchorage, rent a car, book the hotels in advance or just camp and take the affordable day cruises form ports next to the glaciers. Your cost for a family of four is cut to a third of what you would have paid on a cruise, and the level of enjoyment is about twice.
Key to cost reduction:
1. Book flight and hotels well in advance
Start tracking www.travelocity.com or other airlines sites for air fares to Anchorage, at least seven weeks in advance. The fares occasionally dip and you need to act at the right moment.
2. Hotels:
Go for hotels/inns/motels without franchise. If you are comfortable you can opt for shared bath in decent hotels/motels.
3. Take not more than two day cruises
A cruise to western Prince William Sound from Whittier is the most popular day cruise to see the tide water glaciers. Other popular cruises are the ones to Kenai Fords National park and Resurrection Bay cruise from Seward and cruises from Valdez.
Cruise to College Fjord on Prince William Sound out of Whittier
Kenai Fjords National Park Cruise out of Seward
Columbia Glacier Cruise out of Valdez
Prince William Sound Cruises & Tours
4. Food:
Restaurants are expensive. You can dine in fast food chains or get food from deli section of grocery chain stores like Eagle and Fred Meyer. You get excellent smoked salmon and cooked halibut in the seafood section of Fredi Meyers. You can also have microwaveable noodle soup as we do.
You can choose to locate food chains in advance.
McDonalds http://www.vicinity.com/mcdonalds/
Burger King http://www.burgerking.com/FindRestaurant/index.html
5. Transportation
Rental car is the cheapest option to travel in Alaska, unless you are rooted to one place. Trains and buses are costly in Alaska. Rental car gives you the flexibility and freedom to explore. If you plan to travel extensively in the splendid Alaskan interior, it’s the only option.
Suggested itinerary
Fly to Anchorage
Anchorage is developed for tourism. The area around 4th Avenue offers tourist attraction with souvenir shops, open marketplace and an upscale mall on 5th Ave.
There are museums, zoo and day trip to Portage Glacier through the lovely Seward Highway. But I would suggest that you keep time for Anchorage at the end of the trip before you catch the return flight. This is because, at the end of the over exposure to nature, you will be looking for some fun place to relax. Also in case you have unplanned delays at any place because of weather or otherwise, you can cash in on the buffer days allocated to Anchorage.
Drive to Denali National Park.
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You can take George Parks Highway to drive to Denali National Park from Anchorage. On the way to Denali, you can choose to take short diversions to view Mt McKinley from the south side. There are two places near Denali National Park where you can find affordable hotels / inns. Carlo Creek, 13 miles south of Denali National Park entrance, and Healy, 10 miles north of the park entrance on George Parks Highway. We stayed at The Perch in Carlo Creek and would recommend it. Its affordable and a great place to stay. Try the fresh baked bread from the bakery. The other affordable places are White Moose Lodge , Denali Mountain Morning Hostel, Denali River Cabins
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Denali National Park at the break of dawn |
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From the Shuttle bus in Denali National Park |
The park is open to private traffic only for the first 13 miles up to the Turnaround arm. To visit the park interiors, you need to take the park shuttle bus. The shuttle bus has to be booked at least 3 weeks in advance to ensure that you get a seat. 30% of the tickets are reserved for walk in tourists - but you may get tickets only for buses traveling two days later. You have four destinations to choose from. The most popular ones are the Eilson Visitor center (8hrs round trip) and the Wonder Lake (11 hrs round trip) which goes further into the park and closer to Mt McKinley. You have only limited rest stops on the way. But you may choose to get down from the bus at the place of your choice and take some later bus to continue your journey. The wait may be from half an hour to much more, depending on seat availability in the next bus. |
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You need to carry your own food and water supply for the day. You should see bears, moose, caribou, wolf, arctic fox, dal sheep and other wild life. Carrying binocular is a must. Try to get into the earliest shuttle (starting at 5:15 AM) to see more wild life. For shuttle bus reservation and campgrounds call 800-622-7275 or 907-272-7275.
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Grizzly on the river bed |
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Author Soumyendu with Anjana, taking the Caribou training |
Caribou passing the bus |
Denali Highway
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Denali Highway leads you through a even more picturesque landscape south of the Alaska range. Its more scenic than the National Park itself, with the added advantage of all the freedom of mobility that you get by driving on your own. It starts from Cantwell, 27 miles to the south of the Park entrance on George Parks Highway. Its 133 miles long and runs east to Paxson on the Richardson Highway. Just driving through the highway itself is a great experience, though you can choose to bike or hike at places. |
view from Denali Highway |
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view from Denali Highway |
Before you get onto the highway, stop at the store in Cantwell to pick up a brochure of the highway, which lists all the points of interests and provides useful information. Around 110 miles of the highway is gravel road. If you are driving a car, to avoid flat tire do not exceed 35 mph. To see the pot holes clearly, polarized glasses or add-ons are recommended. You can also carry a Fix-a-Flat bottle from any auto store. |
| There are just three stores/delis on the highway. So carry your supply even as you are driving. |
Peaks of Wrangell from Denali Highway |
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sunset from Richardson Highway |
At the eastern end of the highway, you will hit the Richardson highway in Paxson. Richardson highway is very scenic and it winds its way past the beautiful alpine lakes and through the Alaska range. If you choose to go north towards Anchorage, you can choose spend the night at Delta Junction, about 80 miles north of Paxson. It will make the day less taxing and will cost less. Alaska 7 Motel and Kelly’s Country Inn are both affordable and offers clean accommodation.
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Fairbanks
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Its about two hours drive north west of Delta Junction. Just north of Delta Junction, you see peculiar stuff like the Alaska Pipeline bridge over a river. |
Alaska Pipeline bridge |
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Moose at the outskirts of Fairbanks |
On the Richardson highway moose often come on to the road. You drive past a place named North Pole before Fairbanks. |
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Fairbanks is well documented in many literature. The University of Alaska Museum is worth visiting. The campus is striking. One day is more than enough for visiting Fairbanks. People often feel tempted to drive along Dalton highway northwards to touch the Arctic circle. But north of Fairbanks the landscape is boring.
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Fairbanks |
Heading south to the Glaciers
You can take George Parks Highway back to Anchorage. It’s a fast highway. Whittier and Seward are the two main ports from where you can take day cruises to the tide water glaciers.
Glacier Cruise in Prince William Sound
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Take the Seward highway from Anchorage to Portage Glacier and then take the tunnel to Whittier. The Seward highway between Potter Marsh and Portage is one of the most scenic roads on the world. The gorgeous fjords and the mountains rising to great heights from the water, and the shimmer of the sun, and the blue of the ice coming down the slope, makes it so wonderful. |
My dad at a look over on Seward Highway |
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View from Prince William Sound |
The best cruise from Whittier to the Western Prince William Sound is the 26 Glaciers Cruise offered by the Phillip’s Cruises and Tours. They have the fastest catamaran, which gives you no motion sickness. The cruise departs at 1:00 pm and returns by 5:30 pm. It visits the glaciers on the College fjord. Make sure you request for binoculars. That way you can see the distant glaciers and otters and other sea life better. |
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The Whittier tunnel is open in one direction at a time and switches every half hour. So you need to reach the tunnel by 11:30 am to catch the cruise. Whittier is about 60 miles from Anchorage. So you can start early from Anchorage to spend time at the stopovers in Seward highway, before heading for Whittier. |
On the deck of the cruise |
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As we were speeding through the College Ford |
A Glacier Stop |
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Surprise Glacier |
Anjana with an ice berg from the Portage Glacier |
Seward
Seward is the gateway for the Kenai Fjords National Park. Seward is within two hours drive from Whittier. The Alaskan cruise from Vancouver ends here.
Kenai Fjords National Park is mostly a marine national park and its access is by day cruises. But the shorter cruises do not take you to the park, but only to the Resurrection Bay. However if you have taken the glacier cruise at Whittier to the college fjord, you can skip taking the cruise, to cut down on the expenses.
Kenai Fjords National Park Cruises out of Seward
Exit Glacier and the Harding Ice Field
The most significant aspect of Seward is the Exit Glacier. It’s the most accessible significant glacier that you can drive to. Its 8 miles from Seward. The shorter trails lead you to the face of the glacier and the basin downstream.
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Anjana next to the Exit Glacier |
Exit Glacier |
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Exit Glacier |
Exit Glacier |
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But the greatest experience here is hike to the Harding Ice Field, the source of the glaciers of the Kenai Fjords National park. It’s a very steep 4 mile trail with sharp ascent which takes you upstream along the Exit glacier to the ice field. The trail goes through the different layers of vegetation, the woods, the bushes, the tundra and the bare rocks next to ice. Be aware that there are black bears in the bushes with berries which may get very close to you. The bears do not like surprises and you can consider carrying bells tied to your day pack and bear sprays just as a precaution. But bears generally avoid humans. We passed a bear in the bushes on the way up. On the way down, though there was a bear near the trail, it avoided us. |
Marmot on the trail |
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Exit Glacier |
Exit Glacier coming down from the Harding Ice Field |
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Harding Ice Field |
Harding Ice Field the source of glaciers |
Kenai Peninsula
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Kenai peninsula is a nice place to relax. The road from Seward leads through Coopers Landing. It’s a fishing heaven, with red salmon swarming in the creeks. If you carry a binocular, you will see the dal sheep and mountain goat, up on the high slopes. It has nice lakes with strange copper blue and greenish blue colors. |
Vivid colors |
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Salmon swarming in the creeks |
Cooper Landing |
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The beach at Kenai with the mountains rising across the water is a strange spectacle. Soldotna is the most developed town with Fred Meyer superstore, food chains and other shopping facilities. |
Beach at Kenai |
Homer at the south of the peninsula has the sea face, fjords and mountains and glaciers across the water bodies. It’s a nice place to relax.
But we have a very bad experience with cops in this small town. I feel racial profiling is rampant. May be because of our brown skin, we were stopped for no reason. The cop asked for IDs for me, my wife and my dad (67) and my mom (62) and made us sit for long. He came back to issue a speeding ticket which I feel was totally uncalled for.
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Sunset from the Kenai peninsula |
Outskirts of Homer |
Back to Anchorage
I guess it’s a nice idea to spend a day or two in Anchorage on the way back, before you catch your flight.
The pictures above were taken on our trip to Alaska on 2002. The party consisted of me, my wife Anjana, my dad Sasabindu and my mom Dipali.
Disclaimer: The contents on this page are my views and I do not take responsibility for any inaccuracy of the information presented. The readers should judiciously use the above information at their own risk. - Soumyendu Sarkar Email: sarkar_s@hotmail.com
Copyright © 2002 Soumyendu Sarkar